The Wonders of Botanicals and Spa Clays in Handmade Soap for Colour and Beneficial Skin Properties

The power of nature and herbs has always been a source of fascination for me.

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Reflecting on how all of medicine once came from herbs and trees is truly remarkable.

So, when I discovered soapmaking and learned that I could use botanicals and spa clays to naturally colour my handmade soaps, it felt like a moment of pure inspiration. It aligned perfectly with my vision of creating soaps that both care for and nourish the skin.

Having suffered from sensitive, eczema-prone skin all my life, and frequently dealing with contact dermatitis, this revelation was... well, a revelation—and an exciting one. The idea that my soap could offer additional soothing and potentially healing benefits while gently cleansing and moisturizing felt fantastic.

As a handmade soap maker, I knew that the ingredients I choose are just as important as the techniques I used. With an ever-growing demand for natural skincare, botanicals and spa clays have become key players in creating luxurious, effective, and skin-loving soaps. These ingredients don’t just serve a functional purpose; they can also have powerful healing, purifying, and soothing effects on the skin, making them an integral part of artisanal soapmaking.

Let’s take a deep dive into some of the most popular botanicals and clays used in my handmade soap, exploring their benefits and why they’re so special. I hope that you will find this helpful and if you are exploring soap making yourself, try out some of these natural additives to get these benefits for yourself.

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Here is a list of the botanicals and clays and natural colourants that can be used soap making along with the benefits they provide.

Activated Charcoal (BP Pharmaceutical Grade)

 Activated Charcoal is a powerhouse ingredient when it comes to detoxifying and purifying the skin. This black powder is made by burning carbon-rich materials like wood or

 bamboo. It has the ability to draw out toxins, excess oils, dirt, and bacteria from the skin, which makes it particularly effective for those with oily or acne-prone skin.

Superb Salt bar has activated charcoal added to achieve a spa experience while adding colour, Ghassoul clay has also been added hence the lighter final colour of the soap..

Best for: Oily or acne-prone skin, or anyone looking for deep pore cleansing.

Uses in Soap: Activated Charcoal is a key ingredient in my Superb Salt Bar, where it helps to absorb impurities and cleanse the skin deeply.

Colour: Black to grey

• Skin Benefits: Mix directly into the soap batter at trace, using small amounts to avoid staining skin.

Alkanet Root (Alkanna Tinctoria) is a natural plant-based dye that’s harvested from the root of the Alkanna plant, which is part of the borage family. This root imparts a stunning purple or blue hue to soaps, depending on the pH of the soap during curing. It’s also a fantastic skin healer, known for its anti-inflammatory and antiseptic properties.

Alkanet Root is often used in soaps for its ability to soothe irritated skin and treat conditions like eczema, scabies, burns, and fungal infections. It’s a great choice for anyone seeking natural relief from skin ailments while also adding a beautiful colour to their soap bars.

Alkanet is used infused in the oil of this soap to give this lovely purple colour

• Skin Benefits: All skin types, especially those with inflammatory conditions or skin infections.

Uses in Soap: Alkanet Root Powder Colour: Purple to blue-grey

Method: Infuse in oil for several weeks, then strain and use the coloured oil in your soap recipe.

Annatto Seed (Bixa Orellana) - Annatto Seed is a natural dye derived from the seeds of the Achiote tree, native to tropical areas in Mexico, Central America, and parts of Brazil. These seeds are rich in antioxidants and are believed to promote healthy cell regeneration, reduce wrinkles, and fight signs of aging by encouraging the production of collagen.

Mango Citrus soap uses both Yellow French clay and Annatto for it's colour

Beyond its beautifying effects, Annatto Seed is also beneficial in soothing skin conditions, reducing scars, and protecting against sun damage.

Best for: Mature skin, or anyone looking to promote skin regeneration.

Uses in Soap:

Colour: Yellow to orange

Skin Benefits: Infuse in oil for several weeks or use an annatto seed powder mixed directly into the oils before adding the lye solution.

Beetroot Powder: Beta vulgaris

Beetroot as an addition to soaps offers many skin benefits being high in vitamin C and other nutrients , reportedly also boosting collagen production

 Colour: Pink (though it can often fade to a muted beige

Method: Add at mixing; be cautious, as it may brown over time or with high temperatures.

Skin Benefits: Beetroot is packed with antioxidants, particularly vitamin C, which can promote healthy, glowing skin and may assist in evening out the skin tone. However, it’s important to note that its vibrant pink colour may fade in cold process soap over time.

Bentonite clay, also known as Montmorillonite, is a healing clay that’s formed from volcanic ash. It’s packed with minerals such as iron, potassium, magnesium, sodium, calcium, and silica. The high silica content is particularly beneficial for strengthening connective tissue, making it an ideal choice for enhancing skin elasticity and combating signs of aging, such as fine lines and wrinkles.

Shaving bar with activated charcoal & Bentonite clay for slip and colour

What makes Bentonite clay so effective is its ability to absorb toxins and impurities. When applied to the skin, it draws out dirt and excess oils, leaving the skin feeling soft and clarified. This clay also improves circulation, which can help to revitalize and refresh the skin.

Skin Benefits: Normal to combination skin, oily skin, and those looking for deep cleansing.

Uses in Soap: Bentonite is commonly used in shaving bars, where it not only provides a smooth, soft feel but also helps reduce irritation caused by shaving.

Calendula (Marigold) Petals : Calendula Officinalis

Calendula is a beloved herb known for its skin-healing properties. Its natural anti-inflammatory, anti-fungal, and antibacterial properties make it ideal for treating skin conditions such as eczema, acne, and sunburn. Calendula is also known for stimulating collagen production, which helps keep skin youthful and radiant.

Skin Benefits: Sensitive, acne-prone skin, or those with sun-damaged or irritated skin.

Uses in Soap: I use Calendula Petals in my Chamomile & Calendula Soap, where I solar-infuse the petals into olive oil and add them directly to the soap for colour and skin benefits.

 Chamomile Flowers : Chamaemelum Nobile

Chamomile has been used for centuries as a healing herb, particularly for its anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial properties. Chamomile flowers are rich in antioxidants, which help to keep skin clear, glowing, and free from scars. Its soothing nature accelerates cell and tissue regeneration, making it a fantastic ingredient for anti-aging formulations and those struggling with acne.

Skin Benefits: Sensitive skin, acne-prone skin, or anyone looking for a calming, anti-aging boost.

Uses in Soap: I infuse Chamomile Flowers in my Chamomile & Calendula Soap, which provides a soothing, anti-inflammatory effect while leaving the skin feeling soft and refreshed.

Cinnamon Powder: Cinnamomum verum or Cinnamomum cassia

Skin Benefits: Cinnamon has natural antibacterial and antifungal properties. It’s known to help improve circulation when used topically, which can give the skin a healthy glow. However, it should be used sparingly, as it can be irritating to sensitive skin.

Colour: Warm brown

Method: Mix directly into the soap batter at trace; use sparingly as it can be irritating to sensitive skin

Cocoa Powder. : Theobroma Cocoa

Cocoa powder has been used to achieve a lovely rich dark brown swirl and topping to this soap

Colour: Brown

Method: Mix directly into the soap batter at trace; use sparingly to avoid a grainy texture.

 Comfrey :Symphytum officinalis

 Comfrey, also known as Knitbone, is a powerful herb used to promote cell regeneration and heal open wounds. It’s known for its ability to soothe and moisturize the skin, making it ideal for use in soaps for those who have been exposed to rough conditions like gardening or DIY projects.

Skin benefits: Dry, damaged, or irritated skin, especially after outdoor activities.

Uses in Soap: Comfrey is used in my Scrub Exfoliating Soap, ideal for those who need to cleanse and repair their skin after gardening or DIY activities.

 Colloidal Oatmeal  : Avena Stevia

Colloidal oatmeal is finely ground oats that are suspended in liquid, creating a powder that can be easily absorbed into the skin. This ingredient has been used for centuries to treat dry, itchy, or irritated skin. Rich in proteins, antioxidants, vitamins (especially Vitamin E), and lipids, colloidal oatmeal is a humectant, drawing moisture into the skin and helping to soothe dryness.

Chamomile & Calendula soap using calendula ( marigold Petals) for bright speckles of yellow through the soap. The oil used in this spa is also infused for 6-8weeks with chamomile and calendula flowers for adding soothing qualities to the soap. I also add colloidal oatmeal to give a very soothing soap.

Its anti-inflammatory properties make it particularly beneficial for skin conditions like eczema, psoriasis, rosacea, and rashes, and it is often used in products aimed at sensitive skin.

Skin Benefits: Sensitive, dry, or irritated skin.

Uses in Soap: Colloidal Oatmeal can be found in my Chamomile & Calendula Soap, where it helps to soothe inflammation and lock in moisture for soft, hydrated skin.

Chlorella Algae :Chlorella Vulgaris

 Chlorella, a type of freshwater algae, is packed with vitamins B, C, D, E, and K, as well as magnesium and zinc. These nutrients are essential for healthy skin functioning, cell rejuvenation, and repairing skin damage. Sea vegetables like Chlorella are particularly great for calming inflammation and promoting skin healing.

Chlorella used here for green swirls.

Best for: Skin that needs repair or rejuvenation, especially from sun damage

Colour: Vibrant green- though this may fade to a muted green as the soap matures.

Method: Mix directly into the soap batter at trace; best for a bright green colour, but it can fade over time.

Uses in Soap: I use Chlorella Algae in my Exfoliating Scrub Bar to provide added nourishment while also helping to heal and refresh the skin.

 French Green Clay—also known as illite—is a mineral-rich clay that is deeply absorbent. Extracted from quarries in France, this clay contains a variety of beneficial minerals such as magnesium, calcium, iron, zinc, and phosphorus. Its fine molecular structure allows it to effectively absorb oils, dirt, and toxins from the skin, making it an excellent choice for balancing oily skin and promoting a clear, even complexion.

This clay is highly effective for deep-pore cleansing, which helps prevent breakouts, and its gentle exfoliating properties can also help to improve skin texture over time.

Skin Benefits: Oily skin, acne-prone skin, and those in need of a deep cleanse. Its absorbing power makes it a key ingredient in removing excess oils and impurities.

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French Pink Clay, also known as Rose Clay, is a gentle clay that’s derived from a blend of red and white clays. It has a soft, smooth texture, making it suitable for sensitive and dry skin types. The naturally occurring iron oxide gives it a soft pink hue, which also adds a touch of elegance to your soap bars.

Pink French clay used for lovely pink colour in this soap .

This clay is highly restorative, balancing the skin’s natural oils and returning it to a healthy, hydrated state. It helps with acne, blackheads, and blemishes, and can even be beneficial for conditions like eczema and psoriasis.

Skin Benefits: Oily, acne-prone skin, dry and sensitive skin, and those suffering from skin irritation.

 Uses in Soap: French Pink Clay is commonly found in my Pamper Bar, where it helps to soothe and balance the skin while providing a soft, luxurious lather.

 Colour: Soft pink to dusty rose

  Method: Mix into a small amount of water or oil, then add at trace or into the oils before adding the lye; provides a consistent, gentle colour.

French Yellow Clay another variety of illite clay, is gentle yet effective at drawing out impurities from the skin. Its ability to stimulate circulation and remove dead skin cells leaves the skin smooth, toned, and radiant.

Skin Benefits: Sensitive skin, dry skin, or anyone needing a gentle but effective cleanse.

Uses in Soap: I use French Yellow Clay in my Mango Citrus Soap Bar, where it imparts a gentle cleansing effect and helps maintain a radiant complexion.

 Ghassoul Lava Clay

Ghassoul Clay, also known as Rhassoul Clay, is a high-quality clay mined from the Atlas Mountains in Morocco. This luxurious, fine-textured clay is rich in minerals and has been used for centuries in spas for both skin and hair care. Its unique ability to both nourish and detoxify makes it a versatile addition to skincare products.

Ghassoul clay helps to even out skin tone, reduce blemishes, and increase skin elasticity. It also helps to absorb excess sebum while maintaining the skin's natural moisture balance. This makes it suitable for all skin types, including those with dry or oily skin.

Skin Benefits: All skin types, especially those needing an elasticity boost or dealing with blemishes.

 Uses in Soap: Ghassoul Clay is featured in my Salt Spa Bar, where it not only detoxifies and purifies the skin but also imparts a luxurious, silky feel.

Paprika Colour: Warm orange to rust

 Method: Infuse in oil for a more subtle colour or add directly at trace for a more vibrant hue.

  Madder Root : Rubia Tinctorum

 Madder Root has been used as a natural dye for over 5,000 years, with historical evidence showing it was even found in the tomb of Tutankhamen. This root, indigenous to Europe, the Middle East, and Asia, is not only a rich source of red dye but also possesses beneficial properties

This rose geranium soap has madder root to give it's subtle pink colour. The madder root is infused in the lye and then carefully strained out using muslin or a piece of net curtain works well. Don't forget to squeeze out any liquid from the madder root pieces- and make sure you are wearing gloves.

for skin healing. It can be used to help treat irritations like rashes, boils, and acne, as well as promoting skin regeneration.

Best for: Skin irritation, acne, or those looking for a natural dye.

Uses in Soap: Madder Root is used in my Rose Geranium Soap, where it imparts a soft pink hue while providing skin-healing benefits.

 Safflower Powder Carthamus tinctorius

Skin Benefits: Safflower is rich in linoleic acid, which can help maintain the skin's barrier, improve hydration, and prevent dryness. It’s considered beneficial for soothing dry, itchy, or irritated skin.

 Colour: Pale yellow to soft orange

Method: Infuse in oil for a lighter colour or add the powder directly at trace for a stronger effect.

Sandalwood Powder : Santalum album

Skin Benefits: Sandalwood is revered for its anti-inflammatory and soothing properties. It is used to calm irritated skin, reduce blemishes, and promote an even complexion. It’s also known for its aromatic and relaxing qualities.

  Colour: Deep red to maroon

Method: Mix directly into the soap batter at trace; a small amount goes a long way for rich hues.

Spirulina : Arthrospira platensis

Skin Benefits: Spirulina is a nutrient-dense blue-green algae packed with vitamins, minerals, and antioxidants. It is known for its anti-aging and anti-inflammatory properties and can help the skin retain moisture, improve elasticity, and reduce the appearance of fine lines.

Colour: Light to medium green

Method: Mix directly into the soap batter at trace; colour may fade over time with exposure to light.

 Turmeric Powder: Curcuma longa

Turmeric powder is used to achieve this lovely russet colour.

Skin Benefits: Known for its anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties, turmeric can help soothe irritated skin and may reduce redness or blemishes. It's often used in skincare for its brightening effects. Turmeric has been used in Ayurvedic and traditional medicine for thousands of years to treat skin ailments and promote overall skin health

Method: Add turmeric either directly into the soap batter - this will give more mottled effect or pre - moisten in a little just off boiling water to a smooth paste. I find it best to do this some time before beginning to mix. Then just add to the batter

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Nettle leaf Powder : Urtica Dioica

Skin Benefits: Nettle is rich in vitamins A, C, D, and K, as well as minerals like iron and magnesium. It has anti-inflammatory and astringent properties, making it useful for calming acne-prone or irritated skin.

 Colour: Soft green to khaki

 White Kaolin Clay

 White Kaolin Clay is one of the gentlest clays available, making it perfect for sensitive skin. It doesn’t absorb as much liquid as other clays, which makes it less drying but still effective at balancing the skin’s natural oils. Full of minerals and detoxifying ingredients, Kaolin Clay is perfect for refining the skin without stripping it of moisture.

This clay is particularly popular in soaps designed for sensitive or dry skin, as it gently cleanses while retaining moisture.

 Skin benefits: Sensitive and dry skin, those with rosacea or eczema.

 Uses in Soap: White Kaolin Clay is a key ingredient in my Lavender Soap Bar and Ylang Ylang Soap, where it helps provide a gentle, soothing cleanse without irritating sensitive skin.

By incorporating these botanicals and clays into your handmade soap, you’re not only enhancing the skincare benefits but also creating unique, luxurious products that are sure to delight you or your customers. Whether you’re looking to soothe irritated skin, detoxify, or simply indulge in a little self-care, these natural ingredients have something special to offer. Happy soap making!

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